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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.